Digital Photography News and Digital Camera Reviews
Showing posts with label guide. Show all posts
Showing posts with label guide. Show all posts

Digital Photography Primer Workshop

DIY Network's series on Digital Photography aims to present the basics of this craft to the uninitiated as well as beginning digital photographers. The first topic covered in the Intro to Digital Photography episode, the 'Digital Photography Primer,' talks about the basics and the differences between digital and film photography.

Photography, like so many other things in modern life, has gone digital. As a result, a large and growing number of individuals are opting for cameras that make pictures using pixels instead of film.

There are still plenty of traditional photographers out there -- professionals, diehards, artists and purists -- stubbornly holding onto their SLR cameras, 35mm film and darkroom equipment like bulldogs. But for many people, the ease and convenience of digital photography is just too tempting to resist. That's particularly true as the PC, which is helping to integrate digital photography into the mainstream, becomes a standard fixture in typical homes.

In this workshop, professional photographer Rick Sammons discusses some of the advantages, capabilities and special features of digital photography, and provides practical advice for successful use of digital cameras and related accessories. He also covers the role of the computer -- and specialized image software -- for displaying, printing, manipulating and electronically sharing your digital pictures.

Read Full Article - Digital Photography Primer

This Week in Photography Podcast

Since February 2008, PixelCorps' Alex Lindsay and Scott Bourne have been podcasting 'This Week in Photography' (TWIP), presenting the latest news from the world of digital photography and engaging in informative discussion about various photography topics.

Digital Photography Meets Podcasting

"Photography is one of the largest hobbies in the world. And photographers are hungry for as much information as they can get," says co-host Scott Bourne. TWIP is meant for many different types of photographers, from beginneers to intermediates to enthusiasts. The podcast is an engaging and informative resource for anyone interested in digital photography.

According to the hosts, This Week in Photography sought to "report on the latest consumer and professional cameras, photo software, tips and tricks and the people and companies behind them." Some of the topics covered in the podcasts published so far include the future of digital SLR cameras, producing HDR images, camera tripods, aperture setting as well as digital photo editing.

TWIP podcasts can be obtained free from Apple's iTunes store and downloaded onto computers, iPod's and iPhone's. In addition to the audio podcasts, TWIP is also delivered simultaneously through online video and screencasts, available through the This Week in Photography blog.

Scott Kelby's Best-Selling Digital Photography Book

The Digital Photography Book by Scott Kelby has been named the Best-Selling Digital Photography Book Ever by its publisher.

Peachpit today announced that Scott Kelby’s The Digital Photography Book has been recognized as the best-selling digital photography book ever by Nielsen Bookscan, with over 250,000 copies currently in print.

The Digital Photography Book includes nearly 200 of the most closely guarded photographic "tricks of the trade,” written in Kelby’s inimitable friendly, accessible, shooting-buddy voice. This concise guide to digital photography has helped hundreds of thousands of readers shoot dramatically better-looking, sharper, more colorful, more professional-looking photos.

"Scott Kelby’s book continues to resonate with readers and photographers of different skill levels,” said Nancy Aldrich-Ruenzel, Publisher and Vice President of Peachpit and the Pearson Technology Group. "With his approachable style, Scott’s hard-earned practical advice on digital photography has his readers constantly clamoring for more from their beloved author.” The Digital Photography Book is available at Peachpit.com, Amazon.com, Barnes & Noble, Borders, and other retailers nationwide, and as an e-book via Safari. For more information, please visit Digital Photography Book website.

About The Author
Scott Kelby is president of the National Association of Photoshop Professionals—a trade organization for Adobe Photoshop users with more than 70,000 members in over 100 countries worldwide. He was recognized in 2007 as the top computer book author for the fourth year in a row, according to Nielsen BookScan data. Editor-in-Chief of both Photoshop User and Layers magazines, Scott serves as training director for the Adobe Photoshop Seminar Tour and is the technical chair of the Photoshop World Conference & Expo. In addition to the Down & Dirty Tricks and Killer Tips book series, Scott is also the author of Scott Kelby’s 7-Point System for Adobe Photoshop CS3 and The Digital Photography Book. For more information, visit ScottKelby.com.

Shoot Better Low-Light Digital Photos

Indoor, low-light photography is not always as simple as point and shoot, even with the latest digital cameras. The following tips can help you take better indoor digital photographs in every kind of low-light situation.

Avoid Using the Flash When You Can

A flash-less low light exposure digital photographAlthough using a flash seems to be the obvious solution to low light digital photography, digital flash images have their downsides. Not only will a flash interfere with the setting, it also tends to flatten images, distort colors and wash out skin tones. This problem is especially apparent with the cheap, built-in flashes on most compact digital cameras.

The first thing pros will suggest is to increase your camera's ISO setting, or its "light sensitivity." Traditionally, high speed film (ISO 800 and higher) was better suited for low light photography. Unfortunately, higher ISOs on digital cameras tend to produce color noise - little specks of red green and blue scattered across your image.

Most point and shoot cameras, even those with manual controls, won't produce quality images above 400 ISO. The solution then is to use lower ISO settings, which however, requires long exposure times in low light situations.

Dealing with the Blur

Whether through the subject's movement or yours, long exposure times increase the chances of blurring the digital photograph. These techniques will help produce blur-free shots:
  • Start with the largest aperture allowed by your digital camera. Use aperture-priority mode if you have one.
  • Zoom out as much as possible if you have a zoom lens. More light will hit the photo sensor of your digital camera and exposure time will go down.
  • If the exposure time is still greater than what you can handhold without shaking, use a tripod. Consider something small like the innovative Joby Gorillapod - a small, flexible tripod which will fit nicely in the average coat pocket. There are several sizes available, some of which probably won't fit in your pocket but still aren't as cumbersome as full-size tripod.
  • Use the digital camera's timer function to reduce the shake that results from pressing the shutter button. Most digital cameras will have a two-second delay timer that works great, especially on long exposures.
Long exposures without a tripod can produce some cool blurring effectsIf you have very steady hands, you can try holding the digital camera even on long exposures. Pick a solid stance with your legs slightly apart, and brace the digital camera against your face and hold your breath while you press the shutter. Be sure to zoom in on the resulting image on the preview screen of your digital camera to check for blurring!

Balancing Your Whites

The biggest challenge you face in low light situations is, obviously, the lighting. Chances are you will be shooting in artificial light. Light temperatures from incandescent bulbs or fluorescent overheads can cast yellow or blue tones over a scene. Sometimes, as in the case of incandescent light, this can have a nice warming effect, but it may not be what you are looking for at other times.

The solution is to adjust the white balance in your digital camera. Most digital cameras offer a variety of preset white balance settings which you can experiment with. If all else fails you may be able to customize your own settings. You can also change the white balance after the shooting using software if you shoot RAW images.

Killing Digital Photo Noise

There tends to be unacceptable levels of color noise in the finished digital photograph when using high ISO setting. There are ways to get rid of color noise after the fact using software. Adobe Photoshop features a noise filter that blends surrounding areas together. There are also dedicated software like Noise Ninja ($35-$80, depending on the license) that can provide much more pronounced improvements without blurring or other side effects.

Techniques for Winter Digital Photography

Winter digital photography can be an exhilarating experience. Winter brings with it its own unique beauty worth capturing in digital photographs, as we as its own set of challenges for the photographer. Knowing how to deal with the digital photography issues in winter will allow you to better capture the splendor of snow and ice.

by Rajendran Varma

Equipment for Winter Digital Photography

Two important considerations for digital photographers in winter are comfort and safety. Therefore, it is imperative to dress warmly and in layers for your digital photography trips in winter. The low temperatures also cause digital camera batteries to run dry faster, so make sure to take extra batteries. Condensation can also cause problems for your camera hardware, so take precautions such as not breathing directly on your camera.

Lighting for Winter Digital Photography

The light reflected off snow and ice during winter makes for very interesting lighting conditions for digital photography. However, this reflected light is very often the problem with winter photography since you can end up with too much light in your digital photographs. This results in reduced contrast and less details as well as washed out colors. One solution that is not intuitive is to use flash to help balance the light off the snow and ice, and fill in darker areas. Many newer digital cameras also have adaptive lighting technology to deal with high contrast scenes you are likely to encounter in winter digital photography.

White Balance in Winter Digital Photography

White balance can be especially tricky in winter digital photography. White balance is meant to balance colors in a shot based on the lighting conditions. However, very dark and very bright scenes can be tricky situations for your camera’s white balance, and causes winter digital photographs to turn out dark and grayish because the camera underexposes the scene. Therefore it is important to manually control settings to adjust the white balance in you digital camera. Newer digital cameras often have winter shooting modes that do this automatically.

Contrast and Color

Winter’s photographs are especially striking when the bare, white landscape is punctuated by contrasting and colorful subjects. Trees, mountains, wildlife and people all make interesting subjects for winter digital photography. The interesting patterns and textures that are unique to winter also make for intriguing subjects. As always, experiment with different shooting angles and digital camera settings.

View Amazing Winter Digital Photography

Digital Photography at National Parks

National parks are one of the most popular destinations for digital photographers at any level of expertise. Not only are there stunning scenery and natural features, national parks also allows you to view wildlife in their natural habitat. This opens up a wide variety of digital photography opportunities.

by Rajendra Varma


The landscapes and animals at America's national parks provides a multitude of digital photography subjects simply because national parks in fact were set up to preserve the beauty of these areas in their original state. Therefore, national parks are as close to nature as most of us will get to. The following techniques will help you produce stunning digital photographs of America's natural wonders at these national parks.

National Parks Digital Photography

There are many national parks across America, each with its own distinctive beauty and uniqueness that were deemed worthy of preservation. For digital photographers, this opens up a variety of options. The many national parks offer stunning views of mountains, canyons, geysers, glaciers, valleys, lakes and vistas. They also contain within hundreds of different types of wildlife in the natural setting, giving you the opportunity to get up close with some of these animals.

Planning for Digital Photography

Planning ahead can be very helpful when you are going to shoot digital photography at national parks. Go through park websites and user comments about the parks you are interested in for information on good shooting locations and ideas for your digital photos. You can also search for photos of the parks on digital photo sharing websites like Flickr to get ideas for your own digital photography. Park visitor centers will also often have information on unique shooting locations. Most importantly, however, walk around on your own when you get to a shooting location to find the best angles and lighting conditions to create stunning, unique digital photographs.

Best Time for Digital Photography

The best time to shoot scenery is right after sunrise and just before sunset when the lighting is best. Animals will also be most active during these times, allowing for amazing wildlife photographs. Therefore, plan to be at your shooting location while its still dark before the sun rises or to stay there after the sun sets.

Lighting Conditions

Lighting is the key to high-quality digital photography. It is important to always think about how the lighting will affect your photography, and for outdoor photography, lighting could not be more important. Think creatively about how you can use the lighting conditions to properly reflect the sense of the place, and then plan to shoot when lighting is optimal. Cloudy days are perfect for photography in forests or of waterfalls, while sunny days are optimal for sweeping landscapes.

Composing Photographs at National Parks

Composing your pictures properly can mean the difference between a good digital photograph and an average one. Try to fill the frame with your subject and bakcground or foreground elements. Simplify the composition to focus attention on the subject by eliminating any element that does not add constructively to the digital photograph. Think about the shot and how you compose the digital photograph before shooting.

Also try to shoot unique shots of well-known features like the Grand Canyon or the geysers at Yellowstone. Try to give your digital photographs you personal touch by exploring different angles and digital camera settings.

Stitch Photos

A panorama is a series of photos 'stitched' together digitally to form one wide digital photograph. A lot of medium-range and higher-end digital cameras nowadays offer in-camera stitching feature for shooting panoramic shots of vistas and mountain ranges.

Always experiment with different angles and shooting techniques when taking digital photographs at national parks. It will help you grow as a photographer in addition to producing unique digital photographs of America's natural treasures.

Night Digital Photography

Photographing The Moon In The Landscape with a Digital Camera - Techniques and Digital Photography Tips.

by David Rose


Photographers have been trying to utilize the light of the moon in their landscape photography ever since the photographic process was invented. It was not until World War II, however, that technology had improved enough to make night photography possible.

Night Digital Photography Techniques

Today, despite technological advances, knowing the phase of the moon during a night photography shoot is important as it will affect everything from the type of equipment that you'll need to the actual composition of your photos.

The best times for landscape digital photography without additional light sources, or looking at it in a different manner, away from city lights, is either when the moon is full, the two days before the full moon and the two days after the full moon. Any clouds in the sky will also affect the amount of light available for your night photography, just as they would if you were shooting during the day.

You will have to experiment with your exposure times as so many elements will affect the outcome. The degree of available moonlight; any other light sources; clouds; rain; light reflective surfaces; each of them can make a huge difference to the amount of exposure time needed.

Night Digital Photography Equipment

When embarking on a night digital photography trip, there are standard types of equipment that you will need to take with you.
  • A digital camera that will allow you to manually set very long exposure times.
  • A good, sturdy tripod is mandatory.
  • Extra batteries for your digital camera.
  • Sufficient memory card space for your digital camera.
  • Lenses with which you are already comfortable.
  • A cable release.
  • A good carrying case or a vest with a lot of pockets for your equipment.
  • A flashlight so that you can easily record your information.
Remember that if this is your first attempt at night photography by moonlight, you will largely spend your time experimenting. The resulting digital photographs and your records will help you plan your next venture more effectively.

Digital Camera Settings

In general, during night photography, one can say that on a night of full moon, with optimum conditions, 8 seconds at f/8 using ISO 100 film will be about right. If there’s a crescent moon and conditions are also optimal, you’ll need as much as 10 hours on one shot! So you see, experimentation while photographing the moon is really the only way to go.

Repeat your shots with different exposure lengths so that you can get a feel for what your digital camera will do for you. A very nice composition for a moonscape might include the moon with beams bouncing off of a river, stream or creek. As the moon moves through its different phases, you can still enjoy landscape photography at night although you may have to bring some "extras" and move locations.

Moonscape Photography Compositions

Different moonscape compositions to experiment with during your moonlight digital photography shoot include:
  • A waxing crescent, or a small portion of the moon, hanging in the sky over sparkling city lights.
  • Bring a flash or a flash unit to your moon digital photography shoot in order to illuminate an abandoned house, use colored gels to get different color effects and have a muted last quarter moon lurking in the background.
  • As the moon goes from full to new, you can play with light effects from the stars or allow car lights to streak through your composition.
When photographing the moon with a digital camera, be sure to record not only the length of time that you exposed your film, but also general weather conditions and what phase the moon was in. This will help you to produce better digital photos in the future. Night photography becomes easier when you're able to plan properly so knowing how much natural light is likely to be available will help you pick the right time to go out and what kind of equipment to take.

Nighttime landscape photography is a creative, rewarding challenge that every keen digital photographer should try.


About The Author: David Rose is a nature photographer and creator of the popular moon software, QuickPhase Pro, the fun and easy way to view the phases of the moon.

Advanced Techniques - Producing HDR Images

High Dynamic Range (HDR) photography was once exclusively in the realm of video post production, but with the advent of digital photography and thanks to digital photo editing software, it is possible for average photographers to produce HDR images.

by Sam Zaydel


High Dynamic Range images are a fairly recent subject matter, at least as far as the average digital photographer is concerned. In case you are not familiar with HDR, it is the process of combining multiple exposures of the same subject into one image that more closely matches what the human eye sees. While HDR is primarily photography, it is considered to be a mixed medium art, because of the digital processing which takes place after the images have been captured. An HDR image is of course only as good as the sequence of images captured to produce the final image. There are several considerations that have to be made before capturing any images for HDR post-processing.

What is HDR?

First and foremost, let's talk about what HDR images are. Even though this is a fairly new subject in photography, the concept behind it is rather old. Dynamic Range simply put, is a measure of how many levels of light an image capture device, such as your digital camera, can capture. Think about shooting a bright sunrise. Why is it that when the sun is exposed properly, the rest of the image appears dark and underexposed? Simple, because the camera used to capture the image has less Dynamic Range than the scene being captured.

A sunrise is a high-contrast situation. The rising sun and the surrounding sky are hundreds of times brighter, than other elements in the image. While digital sensors are extremely sophisticated, and so are film emulsions, some scenes are still too much for them to render for bright highlights, and deep shadows. This is where the concept of an HDR image comes in. You know that if you shoot a sunrise, and meter for the sun, the rest of the scene will be dark, likewise if you meter for the rest of the scene, the sun and the sky will turn into a sheet of white.

What if you could bracket your exposures, but later take properly exposed portions of each exposure of a particular scene, and put them all together into a single beautifully exposed image? That's what an HDR image is.

Software

Using special software, such as Adobe Photoshop or Photomatix, you merge the exposures together, let the software generate a 48bit image, and you then tone map the image, meaning you adjust the image to make sure that both highlights and shadows are represented correctly.

Capturing Digital Photos for HDR

First and foremost, a tripod is absolutely necessary. Most serious photographers use a tripod despite having fast lenses, often with optical image stabilization. Secondly, while shooting a completely static scene is the most common method, dynamic scenes will produce beautiful HDR images too when shot correctly. The most important part of producing a good HDR image is spacing exposures correctly. I wish I could say: “Always bracket by 1.5 stops and you will have an excellent sequence!” That would be easy.

Bracket your images for HDRBracket your Images

Unfortunately, the spacing between exposures will vary, based on the scene. There is no limit, other than your computer's memory to how many exposures of the scene you use. Realistically, most situations will be covered by three exposures. Unless I can see that a scene has extreme variations in contrast, I will space the images 1½ or use a one-third stop if the camera offers it.

Always shoot in RAW format. Using RAW, I cheat at times, and underexpose or over expose a copy of one of the images in an HDR sequence. I then use this under, or overexposed image along with other 'real' photos to generate my final HDR composite image. Some cameras offer a custom setting, which you could program with any settings. I can always change the ISO, but I try to keep it at 50 to reduce noise. Remember, as you combine exposures, you also increase noise. Your choice of software will vary, and every image will look best at different settings. There is no one silver bullet here, you will have to use a lot of trial and error.

Final HDR ImageThe Final Image

Summary

To summarize, producing high quality HDR images is primarily in the exposures you make of the scene. Expose your primary shot for the part of the scene that is most important, and bracket other exposures from there. Try to capture fewer exposures at first, and study your final products to figure out what you need to do better. Experiment with exposure bracketing. Try different spacing, and with time you will find what works best for you. After all, even with HDR imaging, some people will choose to expose for more shadows, while others for more highlights. Try to streamline your image capture process with custom camera functions. There is a lot of information online about the available software, and the process itself. This article is a good start, and will hopefully get you on your way towards great HDR images. Nonetheless, use other resources, and experiment!

For more information read Produce HDR (High Dynamic Range) Images


About the Author: Sam Zaydel is a professional photographer, who recently started an Online Photographer Community, to allow photographers freedom to share their most favorite shooting locations and places. To learn more, please visit www.worldonpaper.com.

How to Shoot Absolutely Stunning Sunsets

Sunsets are truly amazing expressions of beauty and colors that can be captured in a digital photograph with the right equipment and techniques.

by David Glassanos


Whether it’s the warm tones that attract people, or the fact that every sunset is unique, people love looking at sunsets. Here’s a checklist for those of you who are interested in capturing these great natural wonders with a digital camera.

Know when the sun is going to set. This is the number one thing to remember when shooting sunsets. I guarantee you will not get a good picture if you show up once the sun is below the horizon. Keep in mind any landscapes that will affect the time of the sunset. If the sun is going to be setting behind a mountain range then anticipate the sun to drop below the horizon a few minutes before the sun actually sets.

Set the exposure and compose the picture in your digital camera well before the sun actually sets. Give yourself at least half an hour before the time the sun will set to get your digital camera and tripod ready. Play around with the composition and try different angles while the sun is still in the sky. Look for objects, buildings, or landmarks that will create interesting silhouettes with the sun behind them. Exposure is a little harder. You will not know the exact exposure until the sun has actually set but you can have an idea of the exposure values that will look best. Play around with the exposure on your digital camera until you get something you like.

Take as many shots as you can. A sunset is a dynamic scene and is always changing. I recommend taking a couple pictures every minute on your digital camera. Each picture will be different from the one before.

Use a tripod. Sure, you can still digital photograph a sunset while holding your digital camera but using a tripod will allow you to take longer exposures while eliminating camera shake. A sunset is considered a landscape so stop down your aperture as much as you can. Try something like f/22 or higher. This will increase the depth of field, putting the whole scene in focus. The smaller aperture will increase the shutter length, giving you richer and warmer colors.

Try to include clouds in your composition. Someone once told me that amazing sunset photos almost always include clouds. Take a look for yourself. Almost every beautiful digital photo of a sunset you see will have clouds in the frame. This is because clouds are dramatic. They invoke emotion. If you want great sunsets, look for clouds.

Make sure the sky is the most dominant part of the digital photo. Sounds obvious, but what good is a photo of a sunset where two-thirds of the photo is the ground and only one-third is the sky. The sky is the main subject of the picture so emphasize it.

Work fast. The sunset will be over before you know it. Your timeframe will be about 10 minutes or less so it is good to know how your digital camera works before you get to the scene. The more sunsets you photograph the quicker you will become so if you have free time during the evening go take some pictures!

Wear sunglasses! Always remember not to look directly into the sun. You can cause severe eye damage by looking directly into the sun whether it’s with your naked eye or through the viewfinder. You have an LCD for a reason…use it.

Well there you have it, some tips for taking great sunset photographs. Just remember, the more you go out and practice the better your shots will become.


About the Author: David Glassanos runs the photography magazine at PhotographedBy.us

Making the Jump to Digital SLR Photography

Factors to Consider When Looking for a Digital SLR Camera

by Rajendra Varma

Digital SLR cameras are a must for anyone serious about their digital photography. Although amateur photographers may find all the features of a digital SLR camera overwhelming, for those with more experience in digital photography, making the jump to a digital SLR camera will be natural. Not only do digital SLR cameras offer better quality digital photographs, but the creative flexibility they provide is unmatched by other digital cameras.

A compact digital camera may be much more convenient to carry and produce good digital photographs, it simply cannot match the possibilities offered by a digital SLR camera. The bulkier digital SLR cameras will be harder to carry around, but their size is required to hold the more advanced hardware they carry. Bigger image sensors mean cleaner image data processing.

Interchangeable lens allow a lot more possibilities and better optical quality than a compact digital camera's miniature lens.

Important Digital SLR Camera Features

There are a number of important features to consider before buying a digital SLR camera.

Resolution

Resolution is even less of a problem today in digital SLR cameras than it is in compact digital cameras. The latest digital SLR cameras have upwards of 10 megapixels resolution, which is good enough for extremely large prints. A 10 megapixels digital photograph can be printed into a good quality 20x30 print. Therefore, digital SLR camera resolution is not really a big factor.

Lens

Normally, when you purchase a digital SLR camera, it will come with a starter lens that is a multi-purpose zoom lens covering a wide range of focal lengths from wide angle to telephoto. Although the starter lens, or kit lens, will produce digital photographs, it will not fulfill the digital camera's potential. So if you do take your digital photography seriously enough to purchase a digital SLR camera, then you should also think about purchasing a good lens. Depending on your personal preferences, you could look into wide-angle lenses if you are into landscape photography, or a telephoto lens if you want to take wildlife or sports photography.

Image Stabilization

Modern digital SLR cameras have image stabilization to compensate for camera movement. Image stabilization will be especially important in low-light situations or high-zoom photos. Each digital SLR camera manufacturer have their own solutions to image stabilization.

Shutter Speed and ISO setting

Digital SLR cameras usually have a wider range of shutter speeds and ISO settings available than their compact digital camera counterparts. Nevertheless, there is a variety of digital SLR cameras out there that offer different capabilities, and not all will offer the same settings. If you anticipate shooting very fast actions shots, it is a good idea to look for fast shutter speeds.

Flash

Even though digital SLR cameras will normally have built-in flash, this may not be sufficient if you would like to do night photography or portrait photography, for example. You will want an external flash to achieve optimal lighting conditions for your digital photography.

Burst Mode

Burst mode allow you to shoot multiple shots in a short period of time, and will be important in fast action situations. The better digital SLR cameras will shot upwards of 5 frames per second.

Ergonomics

This includes camera design and appearance, but also ease-of-use in terms of menu settings and digital photo previewing. Button placements and other factors will determine whether you will learn to use the digital SLR camera naturally.

Other factors

The above are just some of the basic features to look at when making the jump to digital photography. Depending on how experienced a digital photographer you are, you may look at other factors such as focusing capabilities, image processing, white balance, and shooting modes.

It is important to understand that the camera is the most important part of your photography, and therefore it is advisable to invest in a good digital SLR camera if you are serious about digital photography and the quality of your photos.

Home Digital Photo Printing Tips

How To Get The Best Results When Printing Your Own Digtal Photographs

by Gregg Hall


One of the biggest joys of using a digital camera is to then have the ability to print out digital photos in the comfort of your own home. Usually, when you own a computer, the printer is a common accessory attached to it. This is all you need to be on your way to producing the images from your digital camera. When you are interested in printing out your own digital photos, you should take into consideration some of the techniques you can use to achieve the best results.

Digital Photo Paper

All printer companies produce their own line of ink and paper for their consumers to use. With most of the printing projects you deal with, any type of paper or ink is sufficient, but with digital photo printing, a different type of paper is required. This ensures that you will receive the best quality for your digital photos, including brighter colors and a clearer appearance. If you mix different brands of paper, you will find that each one will give you varied results.

One of the options for choosing digital photo printing paper is one that claims to be of the unique archival variety, which is supposed to keep photos from fading over the years. But, once your digital photo is saved to a file, you can always reprint; gaining the same original appearance as the first time you printed it out. All you have to do is find digital photo printing paper that is compatible with your inkjet printer.

There are many different kinds of finishes available for your digital photo printing paper. You may choose from a glossy to matte finish. When storing paper, make sure it is placed within a cool place that doesn't receive any direct sunlight. You will also find that paper designed for digital photo printing costs more than regular copy paper. This means, try not to waste. When you want to use the majority of the paper, let your software guide you on the correct positioning. Speaking of waste, don't forget how expensive the printer ink is.

Digital Photo Printer Settings

Make sure that when printing digital photos that you have chosen the "normal" print setting. Choosing higher options will not make a 300 dpi photo come out any better and sometimes it actually decreases the appearance. These options are really just a waste of ink.

Some users opt for the purchase of a printer that is only used for printing digital photos. These options possess a different kind of technology, which are responsible for producing better quality digital photos. A disadvantage to using one of these digital photo printers is that the most common maximum print size is 4 x 6 inches.

But, for portability and added convenience, they are a joy for avid photographers. These types of digital photo printers also tend to create photos that last longer because they use a different method to apply the ink to paper. The long lasting finish is also made possible through a protective overcoat that is added as a final layer.


About the Author: Gregg Hall is an author living in Navarre Florida. Find more about this as well as quality digital prints at www.qualitydigitalprints.com

Photography 101: Content in Digital Photography

Even with good techniques and composition, without content digital photography loses its substance. It is important to think of the content when you photograph something.

by Kelly Paal

Even if you feel that you already know what kind of digital photography you like to do, it’s always a good idea to try your talent at different aspects of digital photography.

Pictorial
This is a general term but it applies to any digital photographer who’s goal is simply to create beautiful photos. This breaks down into smaller subsets but the most popular form is landscape and nature digital photography. This is what I do and it’s tempting to go on and on but I will just say that this form of digital photography, to me, is a real art. At least that is goal to create art in photographic form. It is the goal of the digital photographer to use their abilities to capture an image in it’s moment of beauty and simplicity.

Portrait
This can be people and even animals. It also includes wedding photography as well. This is an aspect of digital photography that can be a lot harder than it seems. Not only do you have to know your basic photo composition but you need to understand what makes each person look their best. You must know how to bring out their personality and character in the shot. If you love working with people this may be your field. It’s fun and challenging.

Photojournalism
Now this isn’t just press photography, though that is one aspect of it. It is also documentary photography as well, the latter doesn’t always need an event to occur right in front of you. Either way the purpose is to tell a story. Really good photojournalism shouldn’t need the text below it to tell you what is going on. It should be compelling and storytelling. Composition still plays a part in digital photography, you can’t tell a story if the story can’t be seen. And while these digital photos can be beautiful in their technical aspects they aren’t necessarily beautiful images. The story telling is as important.

Abstract
Probably not as common of a form of digital photography but I’m seeing it more and more. This is usually characterized by extreme close ups of detail of something, so much so that you can’t identify the original subject. But in this case that doesn’t matter since the abstract detail or pattern is the subject of the digital photo. (Color can also be the subject as well.) Basic composition still plays a part, maybe a bigger part in this form of digital photography.


About the Author: Kelly Paal is a freelance nature and landscape photographer, exhibiting nationally and internationally. Recently she started her own business Kelly Paal Photography. She has an educational background in photography, business, and commercial art. She enjoys applying graphic design and photography principles to her web design.

Photography 101: Digital Photography Basics

A simplified digital photography course aimed at new photographers out there who want to know where to start.

by Kelly Paal


If you really want to learn digital photography the first thing you need is a good and reliable camera. It must, and I repeat must, be able to shoot in fully manual and fully auto focus modes. To really learn digital photography you must understand the equipment. You’ll need to learn how manipulating the shutter speed, aperture, and focus will have a dramatic effect on your digital photos. Meters, if you have a camera that can work in a fully manual mode it should have an internal meter suitable for what you will be doing. Tripod, you’re going to need one whether it’s portrait work or landscapes you’ll need one eventually to improve your digital photography. Luckily you don’t have to spend a lot here. Just something lightweight and durable. Flash, you can buy a separate camera mounted flash, which is great if you can afford it. Consider what kind of digital photography that you will be doing though. If you’re going to do mostly nature and landscape digital photography, you may only need the fill flash that comes with most cameras today. If you plan on doing portraiture only you will definitely need a camera mounted flash that has an adjustable angle.

Film Speed
ISO setting to be exact. Slower speeds (25 to 400) are intended for portraiture and landscape digital photography. Faster speeds (600 and above) are intended for actions shots and photojournalism. So first you need to know what you going out to digital photograph and make sure that you have the appropriate film for the job.

Shutter Speed
Now that you have the camera loaded with film consider the shutter speed. Do you want to blur motion, or freeze it? If there is no motion at all what shutter speed do you need to expose the scene with natural light. Shutter speed plays a very important role in digital photography. From 1/60th and down to the bulb setting will blur most motion. For example if you want to blur the water in a waterfall, a setting of 1/30th should work. (You’ll need a tripod though.) 1/125th is a normal setting for most shots. On many cameras the 125th setting is marked in a different color to make it obvious. If you want to freeze action you’ll need to start with 1/500th and work up from there. The faster the motion the faster the shutter speed needed to stop motion. Many digital photography cameras go up to 1/2000th of a second. If you’re trying to use natural light alone in a scene you will want to determine the aperture first and then see what shutter speed you need to properly expose the scene for available light. (Keep in mind sometimes there isn’t enough light.)

Aperture
These are the set of numbers on your lens closest to the body of the camera. They can go from 1.8 to 22, and they are also referred to as f-stops in digital photography. These numbers determine how much light reaches the film inside of your camera. Most internal meters will blink on the appropriate aperture for the shutter speed that you’ve set, or the speed you’ve set will blink if your f-stop is correct for the speed. Both the f-stop and shutter speed can be changed to expose the scene correctly in digital photography. Consider that the faster the shutter speed the more light will be needed to expose the scene correctly. This makes logical sense if you think about it. If the shutter isn’t open as long, fast shutter speed, then there is less light able to make it to the film and so the scene must be brighter to expose correctly. To learn, bracket your digital photography shots. Take the first shot at the aperture suggested by your meter, move one stop up, take a photo, one down, take another photo.

Flash
I personally like shooting with natural light whenever possible and at most I use a fill flash in digital photography. But if you’re going to do portrait work then most of the time you may be indoors and you will need a flash sometimes. For the amateur the fill flash units that are on the top of most of today’s cameras are wonderful for basic work. You will have to read your manual on your particular flash unit to learn what it can and can’t do. This is where the camera that is fully manual and fully auto is great for the amateur. You can usually set it so that the camera will meter and set the flash output accordingly and then you still can control the shutter speed and aperture.


About the Author: Kelly Paal is a freelance nature and landscape photographer, exhibiting nationally and internationally. Recently she started her own business Kelly Paal Photography. She has an educational background in photography, business, and commercial art. She enjoys applying graphic design and photography principles to her web design.

Photography 101: White Balance Demystified

White balance is a very important concept in digital photography, and involves the process of measuring light and colors. Understanding how it works will allow you to do wonders with your digital photography.

by Jennifer Clarkson

The term “white balance” originates from the world of video imaging where a device (waveform monitor) was used to match or “balance” the signals from the camera’s red, green, and blue channels to make accurate whites under various lighting conditions, thus balancing your white. In this article, we’ll use “white balance” for digital cameras in a similar sense: the process of measuring your light source’s color temperature accurately, based on your lighting conditions, and using that information to correctly balance your whites and colors.

Symptoms of Poorly Set White Balance
If your digital camera’s white balance is set incorrectly, or if your digital camera chose the wrong algorithm for measuring color temperature, then you will observe a color cast on your digital photo: it will either look slightly blue, slightly orange, or slightly green. A low color temperature shifts light toward the red; a high color temperature shifts light toward the blue. Different light sources emit light at different color temperatures, and thus the color cast. Let’s take a look.

What is Color Temperature and How Is It Measured?
Color temperature is effectively the warmth that is emitted from a light source, and the effect that temperature has on the intensity of any particular color in the visible spectrum. For example, a 200 W bulb has more intensity in the orange/red end, and shows purples and blues with very little intensity. This makes your photo appear “warm”. Daylight has equivalent intensity across the whole spectrum, so you see purples and blues with the same intensity as oranges and reds. But shade or a heavily overcast sky has more intensity in the blue/purple end, so your oranges and reds will have very little intensity. This makes your photo appear “cool”.

Here are some examples of color temperatures from common light sources:
1500 K: candle light
2800 K: 60 W bulb
3200 K: sunrise and sunset (will be affected by smog)
3400 K: tungsten lamp (ordinary household bulb)
4000-5000 K: cool white fluorescent bulbs
5200 K: bright midday sun
5600 K: electronic photo flash.
6500 K: heavily overcast sky
10000-15000 K: deep blue clear sky

Newer light sources, such as fluorescent and other artificial lighting, require further white balance adjustments since they can make your photos appear either green or magenta.

How Does a Digital Camera Auto-Detect White Balance?
Your digital camera searches for a reference point in your scene that represents white. It will then calculate all the other colors based on this white point and the known color spectrum. The data measured from its R G B sensors is then run through a whole lot of numbers and predetermined equations to figure out which white balance setting is most likely to be correct. Remember, white balance is the automatic adjustment that makes sure the white color humans observe will also appear white in the image.

Setting your digital camera’s white balance to auto white balance (AWB) will provide color accuracy under many conditions. Your digital camera will adjust the white balance between 4000K – 7000K using a best guess algorithm. Auto white balance is a good choice for situations where the light changes over time and speed is an issue (e.g. animal photography, sports photography). However, you should avoid using auto white balance settings in the following situations:

  1. Your scene is heavily dominated by one color
  2. Color accuracy is absolutely imperative
  3. You are photographing particularly warm or cool scenes (e.g. a sunset)

White Balance Presets
Most digital cameras come with multiple white balance preset options. These presets work well when:
  1. The light source matches one of the preset white balance options
  2. Your scene is heavily dominated by one color

Common Preset Options:
  • Tungsten - "Tungsten" is the name of the metal out of which the bulb's filament is made. The color temperature of this setting is fixed at 3,000K. Best Use: indoors at night. Otherwise, your exposure will turn out too blue. Creative Use: Set your exposure compensation to -1 or -2 and use this setting in daylight to simulate night.

  • Fluorescent - The color temperature of this setting is fixed at 4,200K. Best use: Fluorescent, mercury, HMI and metal halide lights used in your garage, sports stadiums and parking lots. Otherwise, your exposure will turn out too purple.

  • Daylight - The color temperature of this setting is fixed at 5,200K. Best use: studio strobe lights. Otherwise, your exposure may have a slight bluish tinge.

  • Cloudy - The color temperature of this setting is fixed at 6,000K. Best use: direct sunlight and overcast light. This setting will warm your photo by giving it an orange tinge, which is often desirable in landscapes and portraits. Creative Use: sunsets.

  • Shade - The color temperature of this setting ranges from 7,000K - 8,000K. Best use: shooting in shade, no direct sunlight (cloudy), backlit subjects. Otherwise, your exposure will turn out too orange. Creative Use: direct sunlight – it will warm up your photos even more!

  • Flash - The color temperature of this setting is fixed at 5,400K. This is almost identical to Cloudy but sometimes redder depending on the camera. Best use: overcast skies. Otherwise, your exposure will turn out too red.

About the Author: Jennifer Clarkson is a Canadian photographer living in Ottawa. For more Photography Tips, and to browse her Photo Galleries, please visit her website at www.jclarksonphotography.com

Photographing Waterfalls

Top 4 Mistakes made when Photographing Waterfalls and How to Correct Them

by Jennifer Clarkson


Waterfalls often make great subjects of photos, but it's very easy to get a bad result if you're not paying attention when you click the button. Here are the top 4 mistakes photographers make, and the easy ways to improve your shots!

Mistake #1: Setting your camera to auto-select aperture and shutter speed
Metering is something that cameras generally do very well. They begin to fail, however, when you start to introduce very white or very black subjects in an image. The reason for this is because humans see in 16-stops, whereas cameras "see" no more than 5-stops. This means that images with high contrast are not correctly exposed when left to the camera's automatic settings , if you have a lot of white in your subject of focus, the camera tends to make it grey in the final image, and correspondingly underexposes the rest of the image. Similarly, if you have a lot of black in your image, the camera tends to make the black turn out grey in the final image, thus overexposing the rest of the image.

Mistake #2: Photographing Waterfalls on a sunny day
Sunny days in the forest may be nice for close-up studies, but adding sun to a waterfall landscape is not a good idea , the range of light and dark is so extreme that your compositions will be washed out or hidden in blackness. The best time to head out for a waterfall shoot is on an overcast day, with or without rain.

Mistake #3: Shooting Waterfalls without a polarizing filter
In a nutshell, polarizing filters cut the glare. Wet surfaces tend to reflect the sky colour, so you'll actually need the polarizing filter more for rainy days where the sky colour is grey than for sunny days. But we've already agreed you shouldn't photography waterfalls on sunny days Removing glare from an image allows you to see the colourful world underneath the glare, and no amount of Photoshopping after your shoot will fix it.

Mistake #4: Leaving your waterfall site without trying to slow the water motion on camera
Let's face it, it's fun to try to make those ethereal shots of rapids or waterfalls where the movement of the water looks like silk. Why walk away from a waterfall if the conditions are right for taking such a shot? To capture water motion, experiment with these techniques.
  • ensure the sky is overcast
  • decrease your ISO setting to as low as possible
  • consider enabled auto-bracketing on your camera, if you have it, or setting the exposure to 2/3 of a stop
  • set your camera up on a tripod and frame your waterfall in the viewfinder
  • lower your shutter speed to 1/15th of a second or less
  • take a shot and check the histogram
  • play with slower shutter speeds and different exposure bracketing

Metering and Exposure for Waterfall Photography
The idea is to meter off the part of your composition that would be closest to medium grey, should the image be turned to greyscale. If your waterfall is surrounded by lush forest, try metering off nearby green leaves or grass , never off the waterfall, and never off anything in shade. If you're photographing at dawn or dusk, meter off the sky. This will make the waterfall appear white, and the shady areas appear black. It's really very simple!

In automatic mode:
First, learn how to "lock" your camera's exposure so as to trick it into getting the right exposure. Enable bracketing if you've got it. Point your camera at the green leaves or dusky sky, and lock your exposure. Re-focus your camera on the waterfall, and click the button , this should tell your camera to expose the scene how we see it, and not what its algorithms have told it to do.

In manual mode:
Set your exposure to 2/3 of a stop. Point your camera at a spot nearby the waterfall that is neither bright nor dark. Set your aperture and shutter speed to whatever you prefer (see Mistake #4). Now point your lens at the waterfall and frame the scene in your viewfinder. Click the button and voila , beautiful exposure!





Author: Jennifer Clarkson is a Canadian photographer living in Ottawa. For a more information on exposure, aperture, and depth of field, please visit her website at Jennifer Clarkson Photography

Article source: Articlecat.com


Photography 101: The Basics of Metering and Exposure

To understand how cameras capture images, it is important to understand the basics of metering and exposure.

by Jennifer Clarkson

Typically, humans see their world in 16 "f-stops", or measurements of light reflecting off their environment. Digital cameras "see" no more than 5 stops at once. So the more contrast there is in the scene, the more stops of light there are to be seen. This concept means that correct exposure on your digital camera is critical to avoiding under- or over-exposure. To understand how a digital camera measures this light, let's start with the proper definitions of Exposure and Metering.

Exposure
Exposure is the quantity of light allowed to act on a photographic material. It is a product of the intensity, which is controlled by the lens opening (aperture), and the duration (shutter speed) of light striking the film or paper. Your digital camera's ISO setting, your aperture size, and your shutter speed directly impact the exposure of an image.

Metering
Metering is the process of calculating the best exposure from the existing light conditions.

When your digital camera meters a scene, it measures the amount of light in the scene and calculates the best-fit exposure value based on the metering mode (see below for details). All meters are designed to produce midtone results - neither black nor white, neither light nor dark, but somewhere in between. Metering systems are typically calibrated to a value of 18% gray in digital cameras because a typical scene reflects the same amount of light as this gray value. As a result, scenes with high contrast can give the automatic exposure a difficult time.

The metering mode on your digital camera defines which information in the scene is used to calculate the exposure value. Metering modes depend on the digital camera and the brand, but are mostly variations of the following three types:
  1. Spot (Partial) Metering
    Spot metering is a method of metering that only uses a small spot in the centre of the composed scene. The size of the spot varies with the brand of digital camera, but typically ranges from 1% to 3.5% of the image area. Partial metering covers about 9.5%. Spot metering allows you to meter the subject in the center of the frame (or on some digital cameras at the selected AF point). This type of metering is useful for brightly backlit, macro, and moon shots. Use this metering method when your scene has significant differences in brightness (e.g. between foreground and background) or for subjects that require precise measurement, such as close-up digital photography.

  2. Center-weighted Average Metering
    Center-weighted metering is averaged over the entire scene with emphasis placed on the center area (typically 75% based on lighting conditions at the center and 25% outside). It assumes that you will be composing with the subject in the middle of the frame and most of us know this is not always the case. Center-weighted metering is probably the most common metering method implemented in nearly every digital camera and the default for those digital cameras which don't offer metering mode selection. Most centre weighted systems have greater sensitivity in the bottom half of the frame, which, when used in landscape format, cut down the influence of the bright sky on the exposure. Be careful when using this mode for portrait photography when the camera is turned on its side.

  3. Matrix or Evaluative Metering
    Matrix was introduced to the world in 1988 with the Nikon F4. This is probably the most complex metering mode, offering the best exposure in most circumstances. Essentially, the scene is split up into a matrix of 3 to 16 or more, typically 6 metering zones which are evaluated individually, taking into account such factors as the focusing point in use, subject size, position, distance, overall lighting level, front and back lighting and color. The overall exposure is based on an algorithm specific to that digital camera, the details of which are closely guarded by the manufacturer. Often they are based on comparing the measurements to an on-board database of images. Matrix metering uses a microchip that has been exposed to literally thousands of picture-taking situations. As you point the digital camera towards your subject, matrix metering recognizes its light/dark pattern and reads the light accordingly.
If you test your spot meter on various parts of a scene you've composed, you'll no doubt prove to yourself that there is a vast range of light and shadow, but since the film or digital card cannot record more than a five stop range, what difference does it make? You will still end up keeping the same two or three exposures that were created using center-weighted or matrix metering.

Both center-weighted and matrix metering prove accurate in 90% of one's picture taking efforts. That should boost your confidence in choosing them when you realize that nine out of ten pictures will be a correct exposure! In either center-weighted or matrix metering modes, you can aim, meter, compose, and shoot when your subject is frontlit, sidelit or under an overcast sky.


Author: Jennifer Clarkson is a Canadian photographer living in Ottawa. For a more information on exposure, aperture, and depth of field, please visit her website at Jennifer Clarkson Photography

Article source: Articlecat.com

Choosing the Right Compact Digital Camera

A Handy Guide to Selecting the Right Digital Camera

by Rajendra Varma

Having the right digital camera is the most basic requirement for any photographer. There are cameras with many different levels of sophistication in today's market. While those with a little more experience will gravitate towards more the more advanced digital SLR cameras, for most of us a compact digital camera will be more than sufficient. There are also the so-called mid-range, "pro-sumer," digital cameras that bridge the gap between digital SLR cameras and the compact digital cameras. The choice comes down to the type of digital photos you plan to take and the amount of photographic experience you may have.

The first thing to focus on is the key features that you are most likely to use. Do not look for a camera that has everything, especially if you are a beginner or a casual photographer. Only go for digital SLR cameras if you take your photography seriously since the amount of tweaking and setting changes can be overwhelming for beginners. The features below are a guide to what to look for when choosing the right compact digital camera for you.

Megapixels
The resolution of the digital camera is a measure of the number of pixels that make up an image. Higher resolutions mean the camera can capture more detail and the digital photograph can be enlarged to a larger size for viewing or printing without losing sharpness and quality. Even though the number of megapixels is not as important today because most digital cameras have a higher resolution than what is really needed, it is the most advertised feature of digital cameras. The latest crop of compact digital cameras have 10 megapixels, or 10 million pixels. It is important to realize that a 3 megapixel digital photo is sufficient for printing a 8x10 photo. Click here to read more about megapixels in digital cameras.

However, being able to take digital photos at higher resolutions allows you the freedom to crop the images later and still maintain image quality. With a 5 megapixels digital camera, you can crop extensively and still have enough pixels to print a high quality 8x10 photo. It is this freedom to crop and edit that justifies buying a high resolution digital camera.

Optical Zoom vs. Digital Zoom
Zoom is another important feature to look at when choosing a digital camera. Zoom is a measure of how many times you can enlarge a scene, commonly called "zoom in." Optical zoom is achieved by changing the focal length of the digital camera by adjusting the physical zoom lens, and is the true zoom. Digital zoom is an emulated zoom that achieves a similar result to what happens when an image is magnified on your computer. Even though the image gets larger, the number of pixels in a given part of the image remains the same, and there is an associated loss in quality with digital zoom.

Therefore, it is worthwhile to look at the optical zoom of a compact digital camera, especially if you are planning to shoot, for example, animals or birds from a distance. Unlike digital SLR cameras, which support add-on lenses, most compact digital cameras only have the optical zoom that is built-in. A 10X optical zoom is more than sufficient for most applications, but you should not settle for anything less than 3X optical zoom.

Battery Type and Life
Almost all compact digital cameras come with either proprietary batteries or standard AA batteries. Proprietary batteries, which are most often Li-Ion battery packs, last longer than AA batteries and will have built in chargers. However, finding replacement batteries is harder, and can be especially frustrating if you run dry in the middle of nowhere. Compact digital cameras with standard AA batteries generally have a lower battery life but you can find them anywhere in the world. One more thing to realize is that compact cameras with proprietary batteries tend to be smaller than those with standard batteries.

Shutter Speed
Although shutter speed is an important digital camera feature, most novice users it is generally overlook it since most compact digital cameras automatically sets it. Faster shutter speeds are, however, needed for taking action shots with a lot of motion, such as sports events or a flock of flying birds. If you anticipate taking such shots, and would like to have the option of manually setting the shutter speed, a camera with fast shutter speeds like 1/2500 sec is essential. Taking action shots with a slow shutter speed will make the photo blurry, while a faster shutter speed allows the action to be frozen.

Aperture
The aperture, or f-stop, is an adjustable opening in a digital camera lens that controls the amount of light that reaches the image sensor. A larger opening allows more light to enter through the lens, but reduces the depth of field, meaning that only objects close to you will be in focus. The smaller the aperture size, the greater the depth of field and objects near and far will be in focus. The aperture is how you can blur out parts of the scene to focus attention on the subject. Having the ability to set the aperture size on your compact digital camera may be important depending on the type of photos you intend to take.

The shutter speed setting is connected to the aperture setting. A sufficient amount of light is required to produce a good digital photograph. Increasing the shutter speed means more light will enter through the lens, and therefore the aperture needs to be reduced to avoid too much light hitting the sensor, a problem called overexposure. Conversely, increasing the aperture requires the shutter speed to be reduced to compensate for the extra light.

Shooting Modes
Except for the low-end compact digital cameras, most will have a few shooting modes. The basic automatic mode will have the digital camera take care of all the settings, allowing you to simply point and click. There are, however, more advanced modes that allow you more control over your photography. Shutter priority mode lets you manually set the shutter speed, and the digital camera will adjust the aperture accordingly to allow enough light to enter the lens. Aperture priority mode lets you set the aperture while the camera takes care of the shutter speed. Full manual mode lets you adjust both aperture and shutter speed manually to achieve certain effects. Although more complicated, once mastered, the manual mode allows for the greatest freedom and flexibility in your digital photography. If you would like to have this option, look for a compact digital camera that allows manual modes.

Although there are a wide variety of compact digital cameras available today, by focusing on your needs and personal preferences, it is possible to narrow your options and make the right choice. Some research into the different compact digital cameras will let you be more informed when you are looking for one.

Photography - Rules of Composition

by Richard Schneider

Composition is defined as the combining of distinct parts or elements to form a whole. In photography that definition is very important in taking quality pictures. The following rules of composition should be learned and considered but not necessarily used in every photo. Once you have learned these rules you will be more observant of the possible photo opportunities that surround you. But keep in mind that the really famous photographers usually find a creative way to stretch or break the rules of composition.

Rule of Thirds
The rule of thirds has been used through the centuries and is probably the most recognized rule. The rule of thirds directs that the frame can be divided into three vertical sections and three horizontal sections. Wherever the separating lines connect is an ideal spot for a subject or point of interest. By positioning your main subject at any of the four intersection points, you are giving your subject more emphasis than if it is right in the middle of the photo. The intersection points can also work if there is more than one main subject in a photo. Most famous photographs and paintings have the rule of thirds applied to them in some way or another.

Simplicity
The simplicity rule directs that you should keep the items in your photo relatively simple. If your main subject is close to the lens, then your background should be very simple in order to avoid distractions. Another good idea is to avoid objects or lines that lead the eye away from your main subject.

Contrast
The contrast rule directs that light subjects should be placed against dark backgrounds and vice versa.

Framing
The framing rule directs that using natural surroundings mindfully can add more meaning and focus to your subject. The surroundings could be anything such as bushes, windows, trees or even a doorway. When using this rule be sure to focus on the main subject and not on the surroundings that are framing it. It is also a good idea to use a narrow aperture (high f/stop) when using this rule in order to create a high depth-of-field.

Texture
The texture rule can add a great amount of interest to most photos. When people see texture in a photo it can spark their imagination and make the photo more real to life. Texture would be a good idea when taking photos of rocks, walls, surfaces, hands or even leaves. In order to create texture try to compose your photo so the light is coming from the side and therefore casting shadows in key places.

Diagonals
The diagonal rule directs that diagonal elements or lines can make a photo more dynamic. Diagonal elements could be fence posts, roads or even tree branches.

Leading Lines
The leading lines rule can be used to direct the eye deeper into a photo and commonly to the main subject. Leading lines can lure the eye to a subject by leading to it from any side or depth of the photo. Leading lines could be roads, rivers, tree branches or even bridges.

Color
The color rule is what adds interest and emotion to your pictures. Different color configurations can inspire and amaze viewers. Colors can also be used to accent certain parts of a photo.

It might not be a bad idea to keep these key terms with you when you practice taking photos. The best way to learn and improve your composition is just to use them often and to experiment.

Techniques In Photography

by Low Jeremy

Like all fields, photography, professional photography at that, is not as easy as one may think. In fact, it is actually quite hard to produce photographs that will grab one’s attention in an instant. Here are some tips that can get you started.

Simplicity
In composing photos, one must remember that the fewer objects there are, the better. Simplicity is good in photographs as there should be few distractions from the main subject. Cluttering the photo with so many elements will only For instance, it is not good to take photos of a crowd without a main focal point for instance a building, a colorful object or an image that you can focus your into.

It is necessary to find a point of interest and then do your best to highlight it or emphasize it by using the other techniques that will be mentioned later in the article.

To practice on your composition, you should study advertising photos in newspapers. You should also scan magazines for photos or visit photo exhibits.

Contrast
Another technique that one must learn is contrast, as this makes for a great and interesting photo. For instance, a colorful subject will shine more when placed in a dark background. The same goes with for instance an African American with dark skin set against a backdrop of colorful textiles. Another example is pairing up a small and a large object. By using contrast, you are not only highlighting one but two focal points, which will draw the eye into the photo.

Balance
Generally, imbalance or any asymmetric element in the photo will be able to make the articles more interesting. This means that placing the subject off center is vastly more preferable than putting it on the center. This is actually contrary to what most people think that subjects should be in dead center.

Framing
Another technique in photography is the framing. This is when you use an element in your composition to stand as a frame for the main subject. For instance, a branch of a tree serving as a frame to a couple of lovers sitting underneath it is better than just a shot of tree with the lovers under it. This will emphasize the subject better. One thing that photographers must remember though with framing is that the subject must be the sharper element. Focusing on the frame rather than the subject will only distract the eye from your focal point.

How To Master Digital Photography Basics

by Connie Fillmore

With the advent of digital cameras, the cost of photography has plummeted considerably, with the result that there has been a surge of interest in the field. Greenhorns in this area however, need not fret. Sharpening up on your digital photography skills is easy, provided you have the basics at the tip of your tongues, or is it, at the tip of your lenses!

Mastering the basics of digital photography, first and foremost involves knowing all about pixels and resolutions. These are the parameters that have a direct bearing, and quite a lion's share on the quality of the images being generated. The more the pixel count, the better the resolution or clarity of the picture and the better it turns out when enlarged. So it is obvious that the fastidious photographers prefer robust pixel values. However, with the market flooded with digital cameras of various makes, you can hope for a good bargain. Let us discuss a few basics of digital photography.

Zoom And Tele Lenses
Going digital has also meant that you can click away merrily at anything and everything under the sun. This will only help you get well up on the nitty-gritty of the zoom modes. The Optical Zoom of a camera is worth tinkering with. The "Telephoto" mode makes your subject appear larger while the "Wide Angle" mode is all about cramming a lot of a scene into your picture and hence the elements of the picture appear smaller.

Focusing
 Toying with the controls of your digital camera is a good way of getting a hang about the different picture modes and hence be able to put them to good use. For instance, instead of relying on the instruction manual, see for yourself that the Portrait Mode actually sharpens your subject and de-focuses the background. For those who are not yet comfortable with the exposure, focus and flash parameters can take the help of the Auto Mode in the awkward initial stages.

Lighting
There is no such thing as a photography gene. Good photographers weave magic with their cameras, but this magic is all about getting the lighting and flash issues straightened in their photographs. Shooting in the early morning light is advisable if you want to avoid the harsh glare of the midday sun and in case of night photography, filming during the twilight hours or just as the moon is rising gives you the best results. You should not shoot with the sun directly in front of the lens.

Using the Flash
The flash is quite a lure for the novice photographer but results are not always satisfactory. This is because improper use of the flash function leads to the marring of good photos. In fact, the flash really leads to underexposure, and thus ungainly shadows in night photography. While you are using this feature, inch closer to your subject and thus make sure that all the areas of the picture are equally lighted up.

Shutter Speed
The shutter speed is one area that many newcomers to digital photography is quite oblivious to. But you will be amazed at the dramatic results that mere varying the speeds can bring about. The rule of thumb: fast shutter speeds "freeze" the action, while slow values will result in a blur. Slow shutter speed also let more light enter into the camera, so this is an option worth considering when you need to shoot in low light conditions.

The basics of digital photography are not hard to master. And being well versed in them will help you capture reality in all its essence.